Author Topic: Batterys  (Read 262 times)

charles

  • Guest
Batterys
« on: December 15, 2016, 01:54:42 PM »
Been haveing any battery trouble,weak cranking an ect ...? I have the large battery load tester,multi meter,chargers and I dont have crap for checking a battery ? Why ?  A battery will show 12.? volts or more and still be BAD,then you go get a starter $$$$$$  or take it to the shop for more $$$$$$$$$$$$ .My pickup battery recently,stoped, went into a store,came out wouldnt start OR JUMP start,wound up lucky an push started to get home,(you could have to get a alternator also running it that way,so no further than you have to).Next morning it showed 12 volts,wouldnt even turn the motor over,showed good with every tester I had but,one tester .My 06 1200C wont start now, shows 12.37 volts ,shows good with all meters ,but one meter. You can do a crank voltage test,but,it will not point out EXACTLY if its a bad starter or a bad battery,most of the time a bad starter will pull more voltage . You also know bad/dirty battery,battery cables,starter,switch's,relay's an other connections cause starting problems.I know some of you guys already know all this,but,some dont,an it can get very expensive . So you only need the proper multi meter set on 20 volts if it has that option to check the chargeing system while off an running, an up to about 2000 rpms for the correct chargeing out put . The FIRST thing is to check the battery,charged up if it will,and let set with nothing hooked to it over nite or several hours,then check. Now,if you cant check the cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA) a battery IS HOLDING you dont know crap about the battery,doesnt matter if the battery shows 13 volts ! (Digital Automotive Battery Tester ) I have a harbor freight cen-tech #66892 appx.25% off right now (theres several kinds an $$$$$$$$ ) I had them check my new pickup battery,they had a large expensive tester,I checked it at home an my meter was about exact-volts and CCA .(some of these meters you can put in CA or CCA,some batterys dont list the CA, only CCA) My meter works,if you get a bad one exchange it. You could take your battery an get it checked an advanced or else where.My pickup showed 12 volts,an was a 800 CCA battery,it showed only  .89 less than 100 CCA . My 1200C showed 12.37 volts,an was a 220 CCA battery,an showed only 116 CCA(at full charge would barely crank over cold) .So if your CCA is 80% or less think about a battery,a weak battery can also cost you a starter !  I was reading,dont know if its true,that deka made HD batterys ? Any way I think Im going with Yusas,add acid when you get it,charge with (LIDS OFF) before install,in other words FRESH BATTERY hasnt set on the shelf for years ! Theres some decent prices on these batterys if you shop around,just make sure its a place that stands behind what they sell ! Batterys have fooled many people over the years........

Offline Bassman

  • Bassman
  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 364
  • Miles: 11
  • Chapter: Southeastern, WV (Kanawha Valley)
Re: Batterys
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2016, 08:15:48 PM »
12 volts is not a fully charged battery, it is 25% charged according to Harley.
Harley says 12.7 volts for 100% charge.

If I have starting problems, I start my bike and check voltage at the battery.
It should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts @ 3600 rpm.
It's a pretty good indicator that the regulator is OK, but not a certainty.

I also check the stator for voltage output, an open and for ground.

If those are all OK, I replace the battery.

Most of the time, it's the battery.
I have also had a few stators go to ground.
Bassman
National Road Captain & Scout
Brothers Of The Wheel M.C.
BOTW-KVC@suddenlink.net

charles

  • Guest
Re: Batterys
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2016, 02:09:02 PM »
12 volts is not a fully charged battery, it is 25% charged according to Harley.
Harley says 12.7 volts for 100% charge.

If I have starting problems, I start my bike and check voltage at the battery.
It should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts @ 3600 rpm.
It's a pretty good indicator that the regulator is OK, but not a certainty.

I also check the stator for voltage output, an open and for ground.

If those are all OK, I replace the battery.

Most of the time, it's the battery.
I have also had a few stators go to ground.
      Your right Bassman,I was trying to get them to understand a battery charger will charge up and show charged, and the battery will still be bad and show 11.?? up to and includeing 13 Volts . And to isolate/unhook ALL battery wires/cables from the battery, then charge the battery up ,an then let it set several hours to stableize,then check the battery for CCA,that way a grounded stator ,regulator or other cant interfear(can not pull charge out of the battery,the computer pulls some power all the time in off position) with a correct reading of the battery(keep the battery unhooked from the bike while chargeing up and testing) .If the battery checks out good move to the chargeing system on the bike an check for correct output (like Bassman said above) some regulators under charge and also over charge,to check the stator output you will need a AC power tester connected to the correct wires comeing out of the engine block, unpluged from the regulator . The regulator is actually a Rectifier it converts AC power to DC power and regulates the chargeing output rate at the same time.If your battery is bad, still check the chargeing system with the new battery in,some times the chargeing system causes the the battery to go bad,under or over chargeing . I hope Bassman an myself help some of you guys save you some money.Ive see people get batterys when the alternator was bad an alternators when the battery was bad,both when it was the starter bad,and any combination of the 3 when it was a dirty battery or starter connection,on cars an bikes....the fuse box and ground connections also get dirty on bikes........

charles

  • Guest
Re: Batterys
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2016, 12:12:11 PM »
May be of interest to some : Years ago there was another battery tester,you could check each cell in the battery,it was a small hand held meter, with 2 steel prongs - appx.3 inches long on the ends of the 2 wires .You put the positive wire on the positive battery post and the negative down into the battery aginst the plates in the battery to check the 3 battery cells on the positive side of the battery noteing the voltage of those 3 cells. Then you put the negative wire on the negative battery post and put the positive wire down into the battery aginst the plates on the 3 negative side cells and checked the 3 cells on the negative side of the battery noteing the voltage of the 3 cells . This tester was to check for WEAK/bad battery cells . Now if you put the positive wire on the positive post(or vice versa) and went past the 3 cells on the positive side into the negative side of the battery ,you just shorted the battery out(same as a wire straight from the positive battery post to the negative battery post) good chance it will blowup in your face ! Ive seen batteries explode during jump starting,sparks can also cause a battery to explode . Also,Batteries wired in a series,2 batteries or more wired together, a weak battery will explode,usually in hard starting situations,but not always hard starts . If you ever get acid in your eyes IMMIDATELY WASH/FLUSH OUT YOUR EYES WITH WATER pull BOTH ,TOP AN BOTTOM eye lids open,WATER IN BOTH EYES FAST and then go back to each eye washing out with plenty of water several times ,or you will be blind .You never know what all may be in anything you might get in your eyes ,flush well .

charles

  • Guest
Re: Batterys
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2017, 02:29:53 PM »
For anyone interested,yesterday I got a Yuasa YTX14L-BS, 06 1200C battery,put the acid in,(LEAVE THE BATTERY LIDS OFF) and it was bubbleing hard,about 2-3 hours later it shower 12.72 volts (WITHOUT A CHARGER ,ON ITS OWN) So I left it over nite with the battery box upside down over the battery LIDS OFF to keep any dirt/dust out and let it finish self chargeing and stableise. This morning it showed 12.68 volts on its own NO CHARGER ! That close to being charged,I put the lids on (THEY fit tight a little at a time ALL going down EVENLY,even side to side a little on each plug till the top is flush with the top of the battery) Im going to leave it on the charger 5 hours (probably charged in 1-2 hrs.or sooner) I use a Schumacker XM1-5 charger its automatic sensor,charges different for sulfated .Also got a small battery tender,but like the other charger better,charges slower an seems a better charge. I NEVER leave a charger over nite or days too many things can happen .I hook the charger to the battery THEN plug the charger into the wall socket,when charged, first unplug from the wall socket THEN unhook from the battery to avoid sparks battery's will explode . After chargeing I start an warm it up at least 1 a week,then charge agin when I shut it off,doesnt run long enough to full charge is why,then take the charger off till next time.
   I got a pioneer auto am,fm,cd player in my building,I got a AC to DC converter to power the pioneer > Pyramid #PS-15KX  its 12 volt ,10 amp and 12 amp surge has wire connectors and a cigarett lighter plug in,works well,I got a 4 inch fan from magic mart to help keep it cooled.Searched walmarts website for the converter an it had to be ordered.

charles

  • Guest
Re: Batterys
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2017, 01:33:02 PM »
The instructions with the battery stated charge 5-10 hours,so I left it on the charger 9 hours,probably to cycle the battery.After being off the charger 14 hours (next day) the volts 12.89 ,then I tested with the harbor freight tester -(The battery is a 200 CCA barrery) -Volts 12.86 ,Resistance 8.73 (Resistance -7.00 to 13.00 GOOD ,20.00 & + BAD )   ,The CCA 329.3  After the test I put it back on charge 5 hours and installed ,time will tell........I got this battery threw (amazon) from powersports superstore ..........